Montana#
Phase: 2 — Pacific Coast & Northwest Best Time to Visit: Mid-June through September for Glacier and the mountains; late September–October for fall color and thin crowds; February–March for ski season Avoid: Going-to-the-Sun Road before late June (often snow-closed); August in Glacier (extreme crowding, vehicle reservation required); early spring on dirt roads (impassable mud)
Montana earns its nickname honestly — Big Sky country is genuinely enormous, and the light here moves across the landscape in ways that stop you mid-sentence. Glacier National Park alone justifies the drive from anywhere, but the state's real depth comes from stacking it: Glacier's peaks, the Beartooth Highway's alpine madness, the Lewis and Clark corridor along the Missouri, the weight of Little Bighorn, and a dozen charming small cities between them. Montana is also grizzly bear country throughout the mountain ranges — this is not a detail to file away, it is a daily operational reality. Carry bear spray and know how to use it.
Recommended Driving Route Through the State#
Coeur d'Alene, ID (or Missoula entry)
|
| ~1.5 hrs east on I-90
v
Missoula (hub — good resupply, rest day)
|
| ~2 hrs north on US-93
v
Flathead Lake / Polson
|
| ~1 hr north on US-93
v
Kalispell → Whitefish
|
| ~30 min east on US-2
v
Glacier National Park (West Glacier entrance)
| [Going-to-the-Sun Road — allow full day]
v
East Glacier / Browning (Blackfeet Nation)
|
| ~3 hrs southeast on US-89 / US-2
v
Great Falls (Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center)
|
| ~1.5 hrs east on US-87
v
Fort Benton (historic steamboat landing)
|
| ~3 hrs east on US-2 / MT-236
v
Missouri River Breaks / Upper Missouri River Breaks NM
|
| ~3 hrs south on US-191
v
Lewistown → US-12 east
|
| ~3 hrs east
v
Billings (hub)
|
| ~1.5 hrs southwest on US-212
v
Red Lodge → Beartooth Highway (US-212 to Cooke City)
|
| [Beartooth Pass — allow half day, seasonal: ~June–October]
v
Cooke City → Yellowstone North Entrance (Gardiner)
Camping (Free/Van-Friendly)#
Free BLM/National Forest Dispersed#
- Lolo National Forest — dispersed along Lolo Creek (US-12 corridor): Multiple pull-offs between Missoula and Lolo Pass. Jerry Johnson Hot Springs accessible from here (short hike). Beautiful river corridor.
- Flathead National Forest — dispersed sites, South Fork Flathead: Remote dispersed camping southeast of Glacier. Access via forest roads from Hungry Horse. Bear country — strict food storage.
- Upper Missouri River Breaks NM — BLM dispersed: Primitive camping throughout the Breaks. No fee, no services, spectacular badlands terrain. Access via James Kipp Recreation Area or dirt roads off US-191.
- Custer-Gallatin National Forest — Beartooth area: Dispersed camping along the Stillwater River and Rock Creek drainage north of Red Lodge. Excellent fishing, good access, limited crowds.
- Lewis and Clark National Forest — dispersed near Judith Mountains: Remote BLM/Forest mix east of Lewistown. Dark skies, antelope country.
- BLM land near Fort Benton: River corridor dispersed sites along the Upper Missouri. Canoeists use this stretch — you can van camp at the put-in areas.
Paid (Notable)#
- Apgar Campground, Glacier NP (~$23/night, reservation required July-August): West side of Glacier, on Lake McDonald. America the Beautiful covers entry, not camping fee. Book months in advance.
- Many Glacier Campground, Glacier NP (~$23/night): Most scenic campground in the park — surrounded by peaks on three sides. Extremely competitive for reservations.
- Whitefish Lake State Park (~$20-28/night): Wooded sites on the lake. Quiet, beautiful. Good base for Whitefish Mountain Resort.
- Rosebud Campground, Bighorn Canyon NRA (~$15/night): America the Beautiful covers entry. Remote, on the Wyoming border.
- Red Lodge KOA / City Campground, Red Lodge (~$20-35/night): Base camp for Beartooth Highway. City campground is more affordable than the KOA.
Van-Friendly Overnight#
- Walmart, Missoula (Brooks St): Large lot, confirmed overnight friendly. Central location.
- Walmart, Kalispell (US-2): Main stop for Glacier-area prep.
- Walmart, Billings (multiple — King Ave W location best): Eastern Montana hub.
- Flying J, Billings (I-90, Exit 447): Full truck stop, 24hr, reliable.
- Walmart, Great Falls (10th Ave S): Convenient for Lewis and Clark sites.
Shower Stops#
- Planet Fitness — Missoula (Brooks St): Black Card usable.
- Planet Fitness — Billings (King Ave W): Eastern MT base.
- Planet Fitness — Great Falls (10th Ave S): Mid-route stop.
- Lolo Hot Springs Resort, Lolo (~$8/person): Commercial hot springs pool and spa on US-12 west of Missoula. Lewis and Clark camped here. Open year-round.
- Quinn's Hot Springs Resort, Paradise (~$10/person day use): Beautiful natural hot pools in the Clark Fork River canyon on MT-135. Multiple temperature pools. One of the best commercial hot springs in Montana.
- Norris Hot Springs, Norris (~$7/person): Small, locals-focused soaking pool in a meadow. Outdoor bar. Genuinely charming. Between Bozeman and Virginia City.
- Jerry Johnson Hot Springs, Clearwater NF (ID border): Free backcountry hot springs accessible via 1-mile hike from the Lochsa River on US-12. Several pools of excellent temperature. No fee.
- Sleeping Child Hot Springs, Hamilton (~$8/person): Bitterroot Valley. Low-key, less crowded than commercial resorts.
- TA Truck Stop, Billings (I-90): Pay showers ~$12-15.
- Flying J, Missoula (I-90 W): Reliable truck stop showers.
Historical Sites#
- Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, Crow Agency (free with America the Beautiful): Site of the June 25-26, 1876 battle — Custer's Last Stand. One of the most significant and emotionally complex sites in American history. The Indian Memorial (2003) adds the Lakota, Cheyenne, and Arapaho perspective explicitly. Allow 2-3 hours. The landscape itself is eerie — rolling grass hills marked by white headstones.
- Pompeys Pillar National Monument, Pompeys Pillar (free with America the Beautiful): William Clark carved his name and the date — July 25, 1806 — into this sandstone butte. It is the only physical evidence of the Lewis and Clark Expedition remaining on the landscape. Seeing his actual signature in the rock is unexpectedly moving.
- Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center, Great Falls (free): The best interpretive center on the entire Lewis and Clark route. Covers the Great Falls portage in detail — the most grueling month of the expedition.
- Fort Benton: The furthest inland steamboat port in the US, and the gateway to the Montana Territory in the 1860s-70s. The riverfront is largely intact. The Museum of the Northern Great Plains (
$7) and the Museum of the Upper Missouri ($5) are both worth visiting. - Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Fort Smith (free with America the Beautiful): Shared with Wyoming. Canyon of dramatic scale. Also overlaps with Crow tribal land — significant cultural landscape.
- Ulm Pishkun State Park (First Peoples Buffalo Jump), Ulm (~$5/vehicle): One of the largest buffalo jumps in North America. Blackfoot people drove bison over this cliff for 1,000 years. The interpretive center is excellent.
- Glacier National Park — Going-to-the-Sun Road history: Road completed 1932. The engineering alone is a historical feat — 50-mile road crossing the Continental Divide at Logan Pass.
- Virginia City and Nevada City, Madison County: Two of the best-preserved gold rush towns in the American West (1863 gold discovery). Virginia City is a living town; Nevada City is a preserved ghost town. Small fees for some buildings.
Museums#
- C.M. Russell Museum, Great Falls (~$10): Dedicated to cowboy and western artist Charles M. Russell, who lived and worked in Great Falls. His original studio is on-site. Excellent collection.
- Museum of the Rockies, Bozeman (~$14.50): One of the premier paleontology museums in the world — Jack Horner's Tyrannosaurus rex research collection. Planetarium. Also covers regional history.
- Montana Historical Society Museum, Helena (~$5): State history from pre-contact through the 20th century. Good collection of Russell and other Montana artists.
- Glacier National Park Visitor Centers (free with park entry): Apgar VC and Logan Pass VC both have strong natural history exhibits. St. Mary VC has a good introduction to Blackfeet culture.
- Blackfeet Heritage Center, Browning (free/donation): At the Museum of the Plains Indian. Covers Blackfeet (Niitsitapi) history and art. On the Blackfeet Reservation at the east entrance to Glacier.
- Yellowstone Gateway Museum, Livingston (~$8): Covers the Yellowstone gateway history, park history, and Livingston's railroad heritage. Livingston itself is a surprisingly cultured small city.
- World Museum of Mining, Butte (~$8.50): Butte was one of the most important copper mining cities in the world. This museum includes a preserved mine yard and underground tour option.
Sightseeing & Scenic Overlooks#
- Going-to-the-Sun Road, Glacier NP: 50 miles crossing the Continental Divide. Logan Pass (6,646 ft) is the high point. Snow walls can be 30 feet high in June. Vehicle size restrictions for the central section (no vehicles over 21 ft). Book the vehicle timed entry permit well in advance for summer.
- Many Glacier Valley, Glacier NP: The most dramatic concentration of peaks in the park. Swiftcurrent Lake with Grinnell Point reflected in it is one of the classic Montana shots.
- Lake McDonald, Glacier NP: 10-mile-long lake on the west side. Colored rocks visible in the shallows. The lodge (1913) is historic and worth a walk-through even if you don't stay.
- Beartooth Highway (US-212, Red Lodge to Cooke City): 68 miles, reaching 10,947 feet at Beartooth Pass. Tundra, snow fields, and switchbacks at altitude. Open approximately Memorial Day through mid-October. One of the great American drives.
- Flathead Lake, Polson to Bigfork: The largest freshwater lake west of the Mississippi in the lower 48. The west shore drive (MT-93) in late July catches cherry orchards in harvest.
- Missouri River Breaks / White Cliffs: Take a float trip or canoe segment, or drive to James Kipp Recreation Area overlook. The white sandstone formations rising from the Missouri are unchanged from what Lewis and Clark described in 1805.
- Granite Peak view from Beartooth Plateau: Montana's highest point (12,807 ft) is visible from the Beartooth Highway. Not accessible without serious mountaineering, but the view from the road is extraordinary.
- Hyalite Canyon, Bozeman: Just 15 minutes from downtown. Falls, reservoir, and ice climbing in winter. Exceptional for an easily accessible canyon.
- Makoshika State Park, Glendive (~$6/vehicle): Montana's largest state park. Badlands topography with Triceratops and T. rex fossil beds visible in the eroded landscape.
- Chief Plenty Coups State Park, Pryor (~$5): The home site of the last traditional chief of the Crow (Apsáalooke) Nation. Preserved log house and personal medicine spring. Quiet, profound.
Cultural & Heritage Landmarks#
- Blackfeet / Niitsitapi Reservation, Browning: The Blackfeet Reservation borders Glacier's east side. The Museum of the Plains Indian is on the reservation. Cultural awareness: this is a living community, not a tourist attraction.
- Crow / Apsáalooke Reservation, Crow Agency: Surrounds Little Bighorn Battlefield. The Crow Nation has their own interpretation of the battle's history. Crow Fair in August is one of the largest powwows in North America.
- Fort Peck Indian Reservation, northeastern MT: Home to the Assiniboine and Sioux Nations. The Fort Peck Lake area (behind Fort Peck Dam) is vast and remote — excellent fishing, sparse visitors.
- Butte Historic District: The most intact copper mining cityscape in the US. The Berkeley Pit (open-pit copper mine, now a toxic lake) is a surreal landmark. Butte has a distinct working-class Irish-immigrant culture unlike anywhere else in Montana.
- Livingston, MT: A genuine small arts community — writers, painters, fly fishing guides. Richard Brautigan, Jim Harrison, and Tom McGuane all had connections here. The historic downtown is worth an afternoon.
- Rocky Boy's / Chippewa Cree Reservation, Box Elder: Smallest reservation in Montana, established 1916. Bear Paw Battlefield (site of Chief Joseph's surrender) is nearby — jointly managed with Nez Perce NHP.
Golf#
- Eagle Bend Golf Club, Bigfork (~$50-75): Flathead Lake views, well-regarded layout on the lake's northeast shore.
- Meadow Lake Golf Resort, Columbia Falls (~$55-80): Near Glacier entrance. Good value for the setting.
- Briarwood Country Club, Billings (public access, ~$35-50): Eastern Montana, affordable, functional.
Montana golf is generally seasonal (May–September) and best as a bonus activity near a town base rather than a destination.
Ski / Snowboard#
| Resort | Location | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Big Sky Resort | Big Sky (52 mi south of Bozeman) | One of the largest ski areas in the US by acreage (5,800+). Excellent terrain variety. ~$100-160/day. Less crowded per acre than comparable resorts. |
| Whitefish Mountain Resort | Whitefish (near Glacier NP) | 3,000 acres, consistent snow, excellent tree skiing. Views of Flathead Valley. ~$80-110/day. Whitefish is a genuinely nice town base. |
| Bridger Bowl | Bozeman (16 mi north) | Non-profit ski area with a cult following. Excellent steep terrain, deep powder reputation. ~$55-75/day. The "Ridge" access is legendary among serious skiers. |
| Red Lodge Mountain | Red Lodge | Small, affordable, gateway to Beartooth. ~$50-65/day. Great for a day session before or after the highway drive. |
| Maverick Mountain | Dillon | Tiny, low-key, ~$35-45/day. No lift lines, locals only. Worth knowing about if you're passing through southwest MT. |
Best season: January–March. Big Sky typically has snow November–April. Bridger Bowl is best in January–February for powder.
Drone Photography#
No-fly zones (check before every flight):
- All NPS land: Glacier NP (total ban), Little Bighorn Battlefield NM, Pompeys Pillar NM, Bighorn Canyon NRA
- All designated Wilderness areas: Bob Marshall, Absaroka-Beartooth, Selway-Bitterroot, Scapegoat, Great Bear — motorized equipment prohibited
- Flathead Indian Reservation and other tribal lands — separate jurisdiction, obtain permission
- Within 5 miles of airports without authorization: Missoula, Billings, Great Falls, Bozeman, Kalispell, Helena
- Check NOTAMs daily — fire TFRs are common summer through fall
Legal standouts:
- Missouri River Breaks / Upper Missouri River Breaks NM (BLM): No NPS drone ban here — this is BLM land. The white cliffs and badlands topography from altitude is among the most dramatic legal drone landscapes in Montana. Remarkably few visitors.
- Beartooth Plateau (Custer-Gallatin NF, outside Wilderness): The Beartooth Highway corridor on National Forest land outside Wilderness boundaries. High-altitude tundra, glacial lakes, and the Beartooth escarpment from above. Extraordinary.
- Flathead Lake from state land: State park drone policies vary — check individual park rules. BLM shoreline access points allow drone flight.
- Fort Benton and Upper Missouri River corridor (BLM): River meander patterns from altitude above the white cliffs are a standout composition.
- Makoshika State Park: Montana state parks have varying drone policies — check with Makoshika directly. The badlands eroded terrain is excellent aerial subject matter.
- Bitterroot Valley BLM land: Valley floor and foothills accessible via BLM parcels. Good combination of river corridor and Bitterroot Range backdrop.
Photography & Scenic Opportunities#
- Many Glacier Valley at sunrise (Glacier NP): Swiftcurrent Lake with Grinnell Point. Arrive before the parking lot fills (~6am in July). The reflected peaks in flat morning water is the defining shot.
- Going-to-the-Sun Road snow walls, June: The plowed corridor through 20-30 foot snow walls is a unique photo opportunity available only in the weeks after the road opens.
- Logan Pass tundra wildflowers (mid-July): Glacier lilies emerge through snow. Mountain goats frequent the visitor center parking lot in the morning.
- Beartooth Highway at Beartooth Pass (late afternoon): The switchbacks descending from the plateau with storm light over the Absaroka Range behind.
- Little Bighorn Battlefield — late afternoon light: White marble headstones cast long shadows across the grass hills. The Indian Memorial at dusk is quietly powerful.
- Pompeys Pillar — Clark's signature: Close-up shot of the carving itself (protected behind plexiglass) combined with the broad Yellowstone River below. Morning light on the sandstone.
- Flathead Lake cherry orchards (late July): The orchards along the east shore between Polson and Bigfork in harvest. Rural Montana pastoral — unexpected and beautiful.
- Missouri Breaks White Cliffs (canoe or overlook): The sandstone formations above the river bends. Morning mist on the river in June is exceptional.
- Norris Hot Springs at dusk: The outdoor pool steaming in a meadow, open-air bar, string lights. Intimate and photogenic.
- Glacier's Lake McDonald colored rocks: Polarizing filter required. The rocks are vivid — green, red, and purple — in the shallows. Overcast light is better than direct sun here.
- Big Sky / Lone Mountain at blue hour (winter): The ski runs lit in last light against a dark blue sky. Shoot from the Meadow Village area.
Practical Notes#
- Bear spray is mandatory, not optional: Grizzly bears are active throughout the mountain west of I-15. Purchase bear spray on arrival (REI in Missoula or Bozeman) — it cannot be transported easily on flights. Carry at all times when hiking. Know how to use it.
- Glacier vehicle reservation system: Going-to-the-Sun Road requires a timed entry vehicle reservation from late May through early September. Book at recreation.gov the moment your window opens. This is not optional — the reservation fills in minutes on opening day.
- America the Beautiful covers Glacier NP entrance, Little Bighorn Battlefield, Pompeys Pillar, and Bighorn Canyon. Does not cover camping fees within parks.
- Cell service: Non-existent in the Missouri Breaks, Many Glacier valley, inside Glacier's backcountry, and along the Beartooth Highway corridor. Download offline maps and have a paper backup.
- Beartooth Highway seasonal closure: Typically closes mid-October and reopens Memorial Day weekend. Check Wyoming DOT 511 and Montana DOT 511 — this road closes with little warning when early storms hit.
- Fuel: Fill in Missoula, Kalispell, Great Falls, Billings, and Bozeman before remote legs. Gas is expensive and scarce in the Breaks, between Red Lodge and Cooke City, and in the Glacier corridor.
- Wildlife awareness: Bison are present in multiple areas (not just Yellowstone approaches). They are dangerous at close range. Do not approach. Elk, bear, and mountain lion throughout the mountains.
- Driving distances are deceptive: Montana looks manageable on a map. The distance from Missoula to Billings is ~350 miles, and the route from Glacier to the Missouri Breaks is a full day of driving. Build buffer days.
- Water: Mountain streams above treeline are generally safe with treatment. Below alpine zone, treat all backcountry water. In the eastern plains and Breaks, carry sufficient water — sources are limited.